Although we’ve seen a lot of regurgitated fashion trends cropping up from the early aughts, it’s not all blinding neon colors and skin-baring cutouts. Sprinkled throughout the mega-pop-y aesthetics were the moody styles of high school "underdogs," translated through goth and emocore. It was only a matter of time before some variation of indie dressing would claim the spotlight once again—but “indie sleaze” wasn’t exactly what we were expecting.
Consider indie sleaze the new hipster. It's Gen Z’s interpretation of the subculture that started in the late '80s/early '90s and was made popular by millennials circa 2008. “The hipster movement had this ‘I don’t really try hard' mentality (but is really trying hard to achieve that look),” says wardrobe stylist and image consultant Brandon Nicholas H. The only main difference between then and now is, well, the generations. The Gen Z-ers who first embraced the indie sleaze aesthetic weren’t trying to make a fashion statement; they were just putting more stock into experiences than material things.
Meet the expert
Brandon Nicholas H. is an L.A.-based celebrity wardrobe stylist and image consultant.
To learn more about the history of the fashion trend, how it has evolved today, and tips for pulling it off, we tapped Nicholas to bring you our complete guide to indie sleaze fashion.
What Is Indie Sleaze?
Indie sleaze is chaotic, mismatched, and out of proportion—yet it works. An example of an indie sleaze outfit would be a cropped rocker tee paired with a long, low-waisted maxi skirt, some white tube socks, black loafers, and a white oversized men's button-up as a jacket, complete with chunky headphones that engulf your entire ear.
Stylistically speaking, the so-called “rebellious” millennials of the early 2000s—who spent their downtime browsing Tumblr, creating MySpace albums riddled with flash photography, and listening to artists like Grimes and The Veronicas—were piecing together outfits that, yes, rejected trends, but still looked fairly put-together. The everyday hipster looks consisted of metallic leggings and tunics, knit beanies, fedoras, and chunky, pastel-colored costume pearls. The upscale hipsters (think Alexa Chung and the Olsen twins) were donning designer skinny jeans, skinny scarves, leather jackets, and layered vintage pieces; in other words, indie sleaze fashion at its finest.
“Everyone decided to dress more relaxed and more carefree during this time," Nicholas tells us. Now, people are incorporating indie sleaze pieces into their wardrobes to purposely give off the effortless look.
Indie Sleaze Fashion Brands
Still, similarly to the 2000s, Nicholas tells InStyle that “indie sleaze” can be as cheap or as expensive to channel as your budget allows: “Some brands that have really adapted to the indie sleaze vibe I feel are Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie for higher-end indie sleaze, and even Target.”
Gen Z-ers are big on sustainability and challenging the morals of fast fashion, so, likely, their wardrobes are also pieced together at thrift shops. (Though, for reference, if hipsters weren’t sporting old band tees and ripped leggings, you’d find them shopping at places like the former brick-and-mortar retailer turned online store American Apparel.)
Indie sleaze isn’t just being peppered across racks of clothing at your favorite stores, though. Celebs have always dipped into the trend. First, there were the renowned hipsters of yesteryear, like Kate Moss, Kristen Stewart, Nicole Richie, and Lindsay Lohan. And now artists like Demi Lovato, Billie Eilish, Debby Ryan, Lil Nas X, and BlackPink’s Rosé have picked up on the aesthetic. Check out some recent iterations of indie sleaze fashion that have caught our eye, below.
Our Favorite Indie Sleaze Looks
Build With Basics
As far as today's indie sleaze inspo goes, Nicholas cites Bella Hadid as the “queen” of the aesthetic, declaring, “Whatever she wears, everyone will wear.” Here, the it girl pairs a simple white tank with a sand-colored vest, flares, and a messenger bag. The neutral color scheme makes this alternative style totally wearable.
Contrast and Complement
A hoodie and jeans might be a classic combo, but swapping the jeans for unexpected bottoms—like the flowy maxi skirt and statement boots seen here—transforms your outfit into something fun, refreshing, and (you guessed it) indie sleaze.
Don't Overlook the Details
If you don't think you have anything indie sleaze in your closet, think again. Sometimes all it takes are a few carefully selected accessories—a studded belt, a flannel scarf, and ballet flats—to achieve the indie sleaze aesthetic.
Wear Your Favorite Band
This throwback fashion trend is inherently alternative (even if it has gone mainstream). And what better way to illustrate its rebellious spirit than with an ode to your favorite music artist—à la t-shirt, no less? Olivia Rodrigo shows us how it's done.
Lean Into Leather
Still not sure how to land the aesthetic? Just add leather. Leather garments are edgy and effortless. Incorporating one or two into your look will give it an instant air of authority regardless of what you pair it with. Still, we're partial to this varsity sweatshirt and leopard print heels.
Opt for Oversized
One of our favorite fashion muses, Billie Eilish tends to favor an oversized silhouette. The result is comfy and cool, especially when mixed with patterns like indie plaid. She's also convinced us to make a bandana our next accessory du jour.
Play With Proportions
An itty bitty crop top and denim miniskirt get some balance with tall black leather boots. Other footwear alternatives include platform boots or chunky loafers with tube socks. And in case temperatures drop, layer on a long leather trench and patterned tights for extra warmth—and style points.
Go Eclectic
Indie sleaze, or any fashion aesthetic, is about self-expression. While there are general guidelines here, there aren't any real rules. So if you can't decide on one garment, why not wear them all? The more mixing and matching and layers, the better.