The best pigmentation serums for sun spots and post-acne marks (2024)

An uneven complexion can be perceived to be more ageing than lines and wrinkles; a fact that study after study is reinforcing. One of the most common skin issues, hyperpigmentation, takes several forms and affects a wide range of people. According to a global study by La Roche-Posay, as many as 50 per cent of us believe we have a pigmentation issue, ranging from solar lentigo (sun spots) to post-inflammatory erythema (acne scars).

Hyperpigmentation is an umbrella term that refers to the overproduction of melanin (the pigment that determines skin colour), which results in darker spots or patches on the skin's surface.

We often use the term loosely to describe a collection of localised pigment-related issues but, generally speaking, hyperpigmentation can be separated into two camps: the result of external factors, like mottled patches that come from sun exposure, and post-inflammatory scarring like the red erythema that remains after a bout of adult acne; or internal factors, such as hormonal flux and pregnancy, which present as melasma.

How can you tell the difference between sun damage and melasma? “Melasma tends to occur symmetrically as flat brown patches on the forehead, upper cheeks, bridge of the nose and jawline,” says the consultant dermatologist Dr Mary Sommerlad. This more complex cause of dark spots is, as Dr Sommerlad explains, “a chronic condition, thought to be caused by the interplay between visible light and hormones such as progesterone.” Sadly, it doesn't always respond to topical treatments as readily as sun damage and erythema do.

But whichever form of hyperpigmentation you’re faced with, know that it doesn’t necessarily require treatment (although if you’re speckled with sunspots, you may want to find a new face SPF). While an uneven skin tone is harmless, many of us want to unify ours: in fact, ‘hyperpigmentation’ was one of Google’s most-searched beauty terms in 2023.

And while in-clinic protocols are plentiful and impressively effective, at-home hyperpigmentation serums and treatments haven’t always hit the mark. Acid-based peels can be harsh, and therefore more trouble than they’re worth, while vitamin C serum formulas were previously marred by potency and stability issues that meant your money may have been better spent elsewhere.

But now, hyperpigmentation serums are coming on leaps and bounds, with a host of impressive, sensitively formulated new products hitting the market, meaning you may well be able to skip the clinic (but not the sunscreen) altogether.

“You can treat hyperpigmentation at home, and the best products for the job are a combination of chemical exfoliants and anti-melanin creams and serums,” says Dr Munir Somji, the aesthetic doctor and founder of DrMediSpa.

When it comes to ingredients, there are now plenty of options on the table, the most effective of which inhibit tyrosinase (an enzyme that acts as the catalyst for melanin production). Inhibit tyrosinase, and you theoretically inhibit the pigmentation. Vitamin C, tranexamic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, hexylresorcinol and azelaic acid, along with prescription-only hydroquinone (available through online services such as Dermatica, Skin + Me, Klira and The Secret Skincare), are some of the most effective.

Chemical exfoliators, such as glycolic acid, can also be a good ally when treating pigmentation, be it via a professional peel or an at-home resurfacing treatment.

And finally, look to the serious innovators for ingredients designed specifically to stop pigmentation in its tracks. Klira offers custom, prescription-strength skin serums to tackle your specific issues, while La Roche-Posay’s new Mela B3 line is particularly promising, featuring a new-to-market (and swiftly trademarked) melanin-filtering molecule that stops the pigment before it develops on the skin's surface. And, of course, you are going to need a good face SPF to use in tandem with your new pigment-fading routine. “It is also essential to protect the skin from more pigmentation – we recommend using a sunscreen that has both a chemical and physical block, which will prevent pigmentation caused by heat, and UVA and UVB rays,” says Dr. Somji.

Here, see the pigmentation serums we’ve tried and been impressed by.

The wait for this serum to arrive in the UK (it's been available in the US for some time) was worth it. Lightweight enough to slide easily into any skincare routine, but heavyweight on potency, the formula contains L-ascorbic acid (the purest form of vitamin C), alongside hyaluronic acid and ceramides to improve skin tone while keeping the complexion juicy and hydrated.

While Dr Maryam Zamani is a magician at treating pigmentation with her in-clinic light and laser protocols, she's also excellent at getting results via her topicals. This ultra-targeted serum serves up 10 per cent vitamin C, which gets straight to work, resulting in faded dark spots and reduced acne and blemish scarring.

Eucerin has long been an innovator in dark spot correction. The brand's no-nonsense, science-first approach has led to Eucerin developing its own patented tyrosinase inhibiting complex, which offers equally no-nonsense results. In the Spot Corrector, the super-targeted pen-style applicator means you can seek out the worst dark patches for some extra attention.

Dr. Emma Craythorne’s brilliant new venture is leading the way in the custom-skincare category. Offering a prescription-strength serum, completely tailored to your needs, it’s one of most no-frills ways of getting to grips with whatever you want to treat, be it acne, rosacea, or indeed pigmentation.

Formulated in collaboration with Stanford University fellows, Topicals is an efficacy-first brand designed for tricky, temperamental skin moments. This fan-favourite clearing serum (which is already huge news in the US) is intended to clear and brighten post-acne pigmentation in skin of all colours, using tranexamic acid to fade discolouration, niacinamide to regulate sebum production, and azelaic acid to calm inflammation.

This forensically formulated power serum uses a cocktail of acids to resurface dark spots, from mandelic and lactic to spot-fighting salicylic. Antioxidants and peptides work hard in the background to brighten the complexion. A great choice for skin prone to oiliness and blemishes, as well as post-acne erythema.

The star of Dermalogica’s Powerbright collection (you likely don’t need to invest in the whole line-up, just buy this one and stick with it), this acid-based serum treats all three pigmentation subtypes to promote a unified complexion. Brightening agent hexylresorcinol works with a hefty dose of niacinamide to even out marks in a matter of weeks.

With a small-but-mighty ingredients list, Skinceuticals’ discolouration serum is a punchy option for those tackling sun spots or even melasma, featuring a combination of tranexamic acid, sulfonic acid and niacinamide. Some users claim to have seen results in as little as one week.

Pregnancy is one of the times when hormonal melasma is most likely to rear its head – and simultaneously, the time when you’re scrutinising the ingredients in your skincare most. While retinoids are generally best avoided through pregnancy, azelaic acid (a brilliant skin-calmer and redness-reducer) is approved of by dermatologists, and can be used to keep pigmentation at bay. Beauty Pie has formulated this brilliantly simple yet effective option.

A complex of antioxidants and acids make this one a punchy choice for brightening all types of pigmentation. With salicylic and glycolic acids in the mix, it’s not one for hyper-sensitive types, but will deliver rapid exfoliating and unifying results on robust, strong skin barriers.

Azelaic acid is one of the best ingredients to employ when treating pigmentation. It plays a starring role in Dr. Sam Bunting’s revered Flawless skincare line, and is used to brilliant effect in her Brightly Serum, which contains a 10 per cent dose alongside niacinamide, bakuchiol and vitamin C.